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Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes

USE FOR: Tie-Dye, Tub Dyeing, Low Immersion Dyeing, Batik, Dye Painting, Silk Painting, Screen & Block Printing or Stenciling, even Tie-dyeing Silk in a Microwave

USE ON: All natural Fibers (Cotton, Rayon, Hemp, Silk, etc.), Wood, Cane, and Rattan

 4.85 ( 1384 review )
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Since 1969 Dharma Trading Co. has been the #1 source for dyes for Tie-Dye!

When all is said and done, there is no better dye for natural fabrics than Fiber Reactive Procion type Dye. This is the eye catching dye you've seen on tie-dye shirts and other items sold at street fairs and concerts.

All 130 colors are brilliant, mouth-watering, and permanent. They don't fade, even after repeated washings. They are economical, safe, and easy to use. Superior to supermarket dyes in every way! Buy in small quantities, in bulk, or in kits. To purchase our new Fiber Reactive Poster of all 130 current colors click here!

Colors below are intended as a guide only, as computer monitors and dye results on different fabrics, with different techniques, or even different water chemistry, can vary. If you need a really specific color, it is best to test on a small scale first!

If you have never used these dyes before, you need to know that certain chemicals are required (like Soda Ash Fixative) and others are recommended, for these dyes to work properly. Click the tabs below for complete description and instructions for all the different techniques you can use these dyes for. Read the instructions for your chosen technique(s) to see what else you will need. We have also chosen some popular color combination Palettes for you here!

• Prices begin at $2.95 and vary by color and size. See the order form below for specifics.
• All colors are available in 2 oz., 8 oz., 1 lb., 5 lb., 10 lb., and 25 lb. sizes.
• Even better discounts are available for 50 lbs. or 100 lbs of a given color (call for details).

To see the NEW Limited Edition Fiber Reactive FallTones inspired by the Pantone® Fall 2014 Colors, click here

Made in: N/A

  • Colors & Ordering
  • Description
  • Instructions
  • Brochures
  • FAQ
  • Tutorials
  • Videos

Limited Edition Fiber Reactive Falltones For 2014

Bigger Colorchips [+]
(click colors for even bigger)
NameSizesQuant
PRFT14 : Bougainvillea
PRFT14 : Royal Blue** (PR95)
PRFT14 : S.F. Fog
PRFT14 : Jungle Red** (PR45)
PRFT14 : #2 Pencil
PRFT14 : Razzle Dazzle (T)
PRFT14 : Sweet Alyssum
PRFT14 : Cocoa Loco
PRFT14 : Rhythm & Blue (T)
PRFT14 : Muir Green

Limited Edition Fiber Reactive Springtones For 2014

PRST14 : Azure Blue* (PR56)
PRST14 : Orange Crush
PRST14 : Daffodil
PRST14 : Elephant Grey
PRST14 : Hyacinth
PRST14 : Bougainvillea
PRST14 : Watermelon
PRST14 : Sahara
PRST14 : Sea Glass (T)
PRST14 : Baby Blue Eyes (T)

Introducing 24 New Fiber Reactive Colors

NameSizesQuant
PR141 : TERRACOTTA
PR142 : DUTCH CHOCOLATE *
PR143 : WASABI (T)
PR144 : CHAMOIS
PR145 : DANCES WITH RAISINS *
PR146 : KINGFISHER BLUE *
PR147 : ORANGE SORBET
PR148 : POMEGRANATE *
PR149 : LIME SQUEEZE (T)
PR150 : GUN METAL GRAY
PR151 : Parakeet (T)
PR152 : Dragon Fruit
PR153 : Mermaid's Dream *
PR154 : Brushed Steel
PR155 : Amber Waves
PR275 : HOT BLACK **
PR156 : Clear Sky
PR157 : Celadon
PR158 : Granny Apple
PR159 : Hydrangea
PR160 : Blueberry
PR161 : Power Berry *
PR162 : Grecian Sea * (T)
PR163 : Cardinal Red *

All Our Original Fiber Reactive Colors

ColorNameSizesQuant
PR114 : IVORY
PR97 : CITRUS YELLOW
PR1 : LEMON YELLOW (Primary)
PR2 : BRIGHT YELLOW
PR3A : CLEAR YELLOW
PR3 : GOLDEN YELLOW
PR67 : MARIGOLD
PR4 : DEEP YELLOW
PR5 : SOFT ORANGE
PR6 : DEEP ORANGE
NameSizesQuant
PR120 : TANGERINE
PR8A : PAGODA RED *
PR45 : JUNGLE RED **
PR10A : CHINESE RED *
PR9 : SCARLET *
PR10 : FIRE RED *
PR136 : OXBLOOD RED *
PR121 : SUNRISE RED
PR11A : ROSE RED
PR14 : CORAL PINK
NameSizesQuant
PR7A : PEACH
PR98 : BUBBLE GUM
PR12A : BABY PINK
PR14A : HOT PINK
PR49 : RED WINE *
PR17 : BURGUNDY *
PR12 : LIGHT RED
PR13 : FUCHSIA RED (Primary)
PR16 : MAROON *
PR111 : BLACK CHERRY *
NameSizesQuant
PR115 : EGGPLANT **
PR51 : PLUM BLOSSOM (T)
PR65 : RASPBERRY (T)
PR15 : AMETHYST
PR64 : ORCHID
PR119 : RED VIOLET
PR43 : BLUE VIOLET (T)
PR19 : PLUM
NameSizesQuant
PR18 : DEEP PURPLE
PR131 : IMPERIAL PURPLE *
PR18A : ULTRA VIOLET
PR117 : GRAPE
PR19A : LILAC
PR60 : LAVENDER
PR83 : WISTERIA
PR61 : ICE BLUE
PR96 : LAPIS
PR27 : MIDNIGHT BLUE *
PR95 : ROYAL BLUE **
NameSizesQuant
PR70 : SAPPHIRE BLUE *
PR130 : STRONG NAVY *
PR24 : NAVY BLUE **
PR56 : AZURE BLUE *
PR46 : BRILLIANT BLUE
PR112 : PERIWINKLE
PR26 : SKY BLUE
PR62 : PEACOCK BLUE * (T)
PR23 : CERULEAN BLUE *
PR23A : ELECTRIC BLUE * (T)
PR77 : ALPINE BLUE
NameSizesQuant
PR76 : WEDGEWOOD BLUE
PR48 : BABY BLUE
PR80 : ROBIN'S EGG BLUE (T)
PR25 : TURQUOISE * (T) (Primary)
PR132 : CARIBBEAN BLUE * (T)
PR21 : TEAL BLUE
PR22 : COBALT BLUE *
PR28A : AQUA MARINE * (T)
PR50 : JADE GREEN (T)
PR108 : CAYMAN ISLE GREEN (T)
NameSizesQuant
PR85 : SEAFOAM
PR118 : YUCCA
PR28B : BETTER BLUE GREEN * (T)
PR31A : FOREST GREEN *
PR31 : DARK GREEN *
PR134 : MOSS GREEN *
PR140 : SAGE GREEN
PR32 : OLIVE DRAB
PR30A : NEW EMERALD GREEN * (T)
PR33 : AVOCADO
PR66 : KELLY GREEN * (T)
PR29 : BRIGHT GREEN (T)
NameSizesQuant
PR47 : CHARTREUSE (T)
PR37 : BRONZE
PR38 : KHAKI
PR36A : HAVANA BROWN *
PR116 : BRAZILNUT *
PR135 : TRUFFLE BROWN *
PR35 : DARK BROWN *
PR35A : CHOCOLATE BROWN *
PR36 : MAROON BROWN *
PR34 : RUST BROWN *
PR113 : GOLDEN BROWN
NameSizesQuant
PR138 : PALOMINO GOLD
PR101 : CAMEL
PR75 : SAFARI GRAY
PR6A : ECRU
PR139 : MIST GRAY
PR38A : BLUE GRAY
PR105 : PEWTER
PR41 : CHARCOAL GRAY
PR39 : BLACK **
PR44 : BETTER BLACK **
PR300 : NEW BLACK **
PR250 : JET BLACK **
Our Dharma Fiber Reactive dye is the dye of choice for all cellulose fibers, like cotton, rayon, hemp, bamboo, Tencel, etc. They are even sometimes used for silk because they are so economical. This is the dye you've seen on tie-dyes on the street, at fairs, festivals and concerts - the colors are brilliant and permanent. They don't fade, even after repeated washings. Because they don't come off, they are even safe on infant clothing, once properly washed out. They are economical, and easy to use. Superior to supermarket dyes in every way! Buy in small quantities, or in bulk or in kits. Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion type Dyes are good for all the techniques listed below and more!
We also have four Fiber Reactive Dye Tie-Dye Kits:
Colors above (from samples done on cotton) are intended as a guide. They may vary from monitor to monitor (depending on the quality and your personal settings) and may not match actual dyed fabrics. Some colors can shift dramatically on proteins such as silk and wool (for example, black gives a lovely maroon or brown). Colors can shift due to water conditions, temperature, etc., and dyelots can vary sometimes. When your end color needs to be very specific, we recommend a test first, before dyeing your main project or going into production. All of the colors can be mixed for an endless pallet!
A Few Things About Purchasing Dye:
• Colors without a star require 1 level tablespoon (1/4 to 1/2 oz.) for each lb. of fabric to closely match the color card. Note that more precise results can be achieved using a scale and our Procion Dye Yields Estimator.
• Colors with * require 2X as much dye.
• Colors with * * require 4X as much dye.
Colors marked (T) contain #25 Turquoise these colors:
1. Require more rinsing to remove the excess dye than do other colors.
2. Warmer tap water (up to 130ºF) when vat dyeing, can yield deeper shades.
3. Using Glauber's salt instead of plain salt when vat dyeing can also improve results.
#56 Azure Blue also yields deeper shades when vat dyed at a higher temperature (hot tap water 130º to 150ºF).
A Few Things About Black Dye:
There are now currently 5 blacks. Each has a different color cast. All except #250 work well in direct application methods like tie-dye where the fabric is kept moist long enough for the dye to develop full color. You will see some differences depending upon which you use, your particular situation, and your techniques. When tub/vat dyeing (solid shade dyeing), there are some clear differences...
#44 Better Black
Tub dyes with a purple-blue cast and edges are blue in tie-dye.
#39 Black
Tub dyes with a green cast and edges are blue in tie-dye.
#250 Jet Black
This is the most concentrated of all the blacks and gives the deepest black when used for tub dyeing with hot tap water (130° to 150°F). In tie-dye, not hot enough, so comes out pea green to grey. We were out of it in 2013, but we are happy to announce, it's BACK!
#300 New Black
Tub dyes with a blueish black cast and edges are blue in tie-dye. Tie-dye came out black in warm ambient room temp of 75°F or more! (unlike #250, which it is replacing).
#275 Hot Black - NEW!
Tub dyes in HOT (130° to 150°F) tap water with a deep neutral black cast on cotton and edges are bluish grey in tie-dye.
For best tub dyed blacks, use Dharma Dye Fixative in a rinse. Black is a tough color - use a lot of dye and when vat dyeing, double the salt. Do NOT use most Fiber Reactive Procion Dye Blacks to get black on silk, use acid dye on wool and silk for solid black. An exception is our new #275 - Hot Black. With Soda Ash on silk is a deep blackish brown; with vinegar on silk, came out black in our tests, on silk and a less deep shade of black on wool. We are very excited about this black! Try it!

Dharma's Fiber Reactive MX Dyes FAQ

Question:

What makes Fiber Reactive dyes unique from other dyes? What are all the different ways to make it permanent ("fix" it) on cellulose, and on protein.

Answer:

Fiber reactive dyes, like Procion MX, bond with the fiber at a molecular level, becoming chemically part of the fabric. On cellulose soda ash is the primary fixer. On protein you can use soda ash,but it can damage silk if you soak it for long periods of time. We also recommend using less soda ash for tie dye and tub dyeing. (Let the tie dye sit for a shorter period of time, ie: 4 hrs.) Also, colors may shift on silk. Blue does not combine well with silk, causing all mixes with blue in them to shift toward the other colors in the mix, ie black goes brown or maroon, purple goes raspberry, forest green goes chartreuse, etc.. Vinegar or baking soda can be used with silk as a substitute for soda ash. They require heat for vat dyeing and steam setting for direct application. Some folks use the microwave in creative ways. Procion is not highly recommended for wool as many of the colors break down under the high heat that wool needs in order to dye properly.

Question:

I'm a novice dyer and I'm having trouble with one of the Procion MX dye colors in a dyebath situation. The color is not what I expected. What are the variables that can help me find out what the problem is? When is the problem "fixable" and when is it not?

Answer:

What are you dyeing: cotton, linen, hemp etc.? * What color is it before dyeing?
* What color did you buy?
* Do you have hard water?
* How much does the fabric weigh?
* How much water did you use and how much salt?
* Is the salt plain or iodized?
* How much dye did you use?
* What temperature is the water?
* Did you follow the directions accurately?
* Is the color too light? Dye again
* Is the color too dark? Discharge or bleach and then dye again. This may require a change of color choice.
* Colors are spotty or streaky? Not enough room in the dyebath or not stirred enough. The garment or fabric possibly not totally clean before dyeing. Dry chemicals and salt not dissolved well before entering the dyebath. Solution? See Color too dark.
* Wrong color entirely? Over dye for a different color, or see Color too dark.
* Most problems can be fixed if you are willing to take the extra time and effort.

Question:

Why is mixing dyes to achieve desired colors different from mixing pigments? When looking at dyes or paints, how would you determine what the "primary colors" are (if the catalog didn't tell you). If I want to mix all of my own colors of procion mx dye, how many should I get and what colors would you recommend?

Answer:

Dyes are transparent, pigments are not. Pure colors in dye (primaries) are colors that cannot be mixed from other colors but can be used to create a variety of colors. Primaries in pigments are generally pure colors. Procion lemon yellow, fuchsia and turquoise are the primaries. Pigment primaries are yellow, true red and true blue. To mix all your own colors, we would recommend lemon yellow, fuchsia and turquoise, with the addition of navy, cerulean, cobalt and sky blues. Include golden yellow, fire red, scarlet, chinese red and new black. With the possible choices of maroon brown and deep orange. All fourteen colors should give you plenty of options.

Question:

Which is the best fiber reactive black dye to use?

Answer:

We have 4 black fiber reactive dyes, each with a different color cast. They all work well in direct application methods like tie-dye where the fabric is kept moist long enough for the dye to develop full depth. You will see, however, some differences depending upon which one you use and your particular situation and techniques. When vat-dyeing (when you are dyeing a solid color shade) there are some differences:
  • #39 Black- vat dyes with a green cast and edges are blue in tie dye.
  • #44 Better Black-vat dyes with a purple-blue cast and edges are blue in tie-dye.
  • #250 Jet Black-This is the most concentrated of all the blacks and gives the deepest black when used in vat dyeing with hot tap water (130-150F degrees). Edges are green in tie-dye.
  • #300 New Black-Vat dyes with a very blue cast and edges are blue/pink in tie-dye.
Black is a tough color to get. You have to use a lot of dye and in vat dyeing, you need to double the salt. We recommend a 1/2 and 1/2 combination of #44 and #300 for the blackest black in tie dye.

Question:

What does the Soda Ash do in a dyebath?

Answer:

When you add salt and dye to the dyebath along with the fabric the absorbed dye is locked in the fabric so it will not wash off. The color becomes permanent by adding a solution of dissolved soda ash to the dyebath raising the pH of the water. This allows the dye molecules to react chemically with the fiber molecules. It takes about an hour for this reaction to occur fully and set the dye.

Question:

What does the salt do in a dyebath?

Answer:

The salt helps the dye stick to the fabric. The greater the amount of salt used, the higher the absorption and the deeper the color will be.

Question:

What is Afterfix and how do I use it?

Answer:

Afterfix sets the Procion Dye in the fiber after you have painted the dye on. Just mix the dye with water and a little thickener and paint with it on your fabric. When it's dry cover the painted area with Dharma's Afterfix by painting it on over the dye. After an hour, wash out the Afterfix and the excess dye.

Question:

What does Glauber Salt do?

Answer:

Glauber Salt improves the yield of Turquoise in that it gives more intense color. Use it in place of and in the same proportions as plain salt when dyeing solid shades of Turquoise or colors mixed with Turquoise.

Question:

What is Ludigal?

Answer:

Ludigal is a mild oxidizing agent that helps to prevent dyes from decomposing during fixation.

Question:

What is a fiber reactive dye and what does this mean?

Answer:

Reactive dyes take their name from the fact that they chemically react with the fiber molecules to form a dye-fiber bond. This strong bond between the dye and the fiber imparts excellent wash- and light-fastness. These dyes require two auxiliaries; first salt which acts as an electrolyte that reduces the solubility of the dye. If the dissolution of the dye is controlled in this way a more even dyeing will take place as the dye will be absorbed in the fibers at a steady rate, rather than all at once. The second auxiliary required is soda ash which increases the pH of the dye bath which enables the dye to react with the fiber molecules and fix onto the cloth.

Question:

The dye instructions for Procion Dye tells me to use various amount of salt, urea and oil. What are these additives for?

Answer:

Salt is used in the dyeing process as an electrolyte that aids in the absorption of the dyes into the fabric. Urea is a "moisture drawing" agent which keeps the fabric damper longer during the fixing process, thereby making for deeper, brighter colors. Oil, such as calsolene Oil is a wetting agent used when dyeing tightly woven fabrics for increasing the evenness of dyeing.

Question:

Can I dye wood or reed?

Answer:

Yes you can. First be certain there is no residue or finish on the wood or reed to prevent the dye from seeping in. Determine the amount of water needed to cover the material. For each gallon of water add 1 TBL. of Procion dye (pre-dissolved) and 1/2 cup plain salt. Mix thoroughly. Put material to be dyed into dyebath and turn frequently for 20 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of Soda Ash for each gallon of water used. (Pre-dissolved in hot water and add slowly). Leave in dyebath for up to 2 more hours or until the desired shade is reached. Rinse under running cold water to remove excess dye and dry.

Question:

What is the Cold-Batch Method? How do I dye using this method?

Answer:

The Cold Batch Method:
For applying the dye directly onto the fabric.
Excellent for the Dye painting, Serti technique on silk and Ikat warp painting on wool or cotton as well as just painting.
The following method for using Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion dye is one of the best ways to paint the dye directly onto the fabric. The dye can be thickened with DyeHouse Thickener and used like a fabric paint or the thickener can be left out for water color and wash effects and for the French Serti technique of painting on silk. This method does not require any pre-treatment of the fabric, but the fabric must be "cured" after dyeing, and after mixing up the dye, it must be used up that day.
The first step is to make a cold batch chemical water which can be stored a month or more in the refrigerator. (Make sure it's sealed and labeled!)
The chemical water is made by mixing the following ingredients together:
1. 3/4 cup Urea (dissolve in hot water if necessary)
2. 1 quart water (add a little Water Softener if needed)
3. Add Thickener (sodium alginate) gradually to suit your use, from a tsp up to 4 tsp. Start with one tsp and add more very gradually while you stir to avoid lumps. Allow to set for 2 hours or over-night as it will continue to thicken.
Pour off the amount of chemical water you need for one color (for ease of measurement use 1 cup increments).
To each cup of chemical water add:
1 tsp. Soda Ash Fixer (be sure it dissolves)
Dye to taste (try a pre-dissolved concentrate and drip & stir until color is right).
Do the above for each color you intend to use. Don't mix more than you need for one work session as the addition of the Soda Ash Fixer commences the chemical action and it begins to set, the mixture gradually loses strength and four to six hours later is about half exhausted.
Using the freshly mixed colors paint or print directly onto the fabric.
Let it dry until damp, cover or wrap in plastic or otherwise stop the drying process and let sit for:
12 hours for pastels
48 hours for deep shades
Rinse in running cold water then wash out excess dye using Synthrapol and let dry.

Question:

Which dyes work best on cellulose, silk and wool?

Answer:

Procion® MX - For painting or tub dyeing. Dyes the cellulose (cotton/hemp) like the color chart. Often the protein(silk) comes out a different color, especially colors with blue in them-most of the blue will be absent on the silk- so for example, with #18 deep purple, you would get purple pile (the rayon) and raspberry backing (the silk) on devore velvet. Very cool!! Careful, soda ash is hard on the silk. Limit the time of exposure, or use baking soda instead, and steam, microwave or simmer on the stove.
Procion® H -For painting. Dyes the cellulose and the protein the same color.
Acid Dye for Wool and Silk - For tub dyeing. Dyes the silk really well, stains the cellulose a much lighter shade.

Question:

What's the difference between Dharma Dye Fixative, Retayne, and Dharma Afterfix.

Answer:

Afterfix is Sodium Silicate, a liquid with the consistency of honey. It is an alkali like Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) or Baking Soda, only a liquid. Its use is in the "fixing" of Fiber Reactive Dyes, the creation of an alkali environment in which the cellulose and the dye are able to permanently bond together. In vat dyeing, the Ph of the liquid in which the fabric is submerged is changed to about 10.5 at an appropriate point by the addition of soda ash. Afterfix is used by painting it on the fabric over the painted on dye thereby creating a kind of tiny alkali dyebath around each thread.Dye fixatives are cationic agents that work by bonding to the dye molecules within the fiber matrix and "bulking them up"; this "swelling" of the molecule traps it in the fiber and thus makes it significantly more fast. Given this mechanism, dye fixatives are useful with a wide variety of dye types (basically anything that penetrates the fiber matrix and can be wedged there). The amount used is determined by the amount of fabric (and thus the number of dye molecules that need to be bulked.

Dharma Dye Fixative is an industrial "Fixing Agent" used in the dyeing industry as an after-treatment of reactive and direct dyeing. It is intended to improve washfastness, fastness to seawater and perspiration, prevent dye migration during dyeing and improve crockfastness. It is used by rinsing purchased or dyed fabric for 15 minutes in a solution of cool water and about 1 oz. fixative per lb of fabric.

Retayne is also a "Fixing Agent", similar to the Dharma Dye Fixative.
Basic Tie Dye Using Fiber Reactive Dyes
A clear and easy tutorial on how to tie-dye a shirt with the most popular pattern: the spiral.
Ombré
...about the gradated fabric dyeing technique known as Ombré.
The Shibori Bathing Suit
Use the Shibori method to dye a cute swim suit for summers at the beach or by the pool!
Wax Resist Using Tjaps
Sharon and Janet take you through the steps of using one of our Indonesian Copper Batik Tjaps as a 'resist stamp' using wax. A must try for all you batik buffs!
Hand Painted (aka space dyed) Cotton Yarn
Make your own beautiful variegated Hand Dyed Cotton Yarn! Great for all natural plant fibers!
Quilt Design Tutorial
This project is intended to assist you in making you very own quilt! What we hope to illustrate is a method you can use to begin with a clean canvas and create the squres you desire to make a quilt that is entirely your own design.
Tjaps & Cleanline (Inko) Resist
There are so many ways to use our Indonesian Copper Batik Tjaps! Here is a step-by-step tutorial showing the use of (Inko) Resist (a casava paste water based resist) and a Tjap on cotton fabric.
Watermelon Dress
This is one of the owner's favorites! Create a cute little watermelon dress that's so adorable, you'll want to eat it up!
Batik Banner
Using wax as a resist, Janet provides a step-by-step tutorial of how to pattern dye one of our Good Luck Banners.
Spray Dyed Devore Satin Scarf
Dyeing can be just like spray painting! Check out this interesting technique we call "Spray Dyeing".
Discharged and Dyed Silk Rayon Velvet Scarf
Discharging velvet is an easy task that yields excellent results. In this tutorial, Judi takes you through the 8-step process of how to discharge and dye a scarf.
Silk Cut Velvet Scarf and Bag Tutorial
Dyeing cut velvet has an interesting multi-colored effect, as shown by Judi in this step-by-step tutorial.
Scrunch Dyed T-shirt
Scrunch it up and dye it. It's that simple, really, and the results are great!
Shaving Cream Dyeing with Dharma Fiber Reactive MX Dyes
Here's a unique method of using shaving cream and Dharma Fiber Reactive MX dyes to get beautiful marble effects on fabric.
Leafy Quilt
An example and materials list of a beautiful leaf-print quilt using a variety of Dharma products!
Halloween Table Decoration
Decorations can make an evening and we have a way to get your guest swooning! We used one of our Copper Batik Tjaps to make a dinner table to remember.
IMG:SODA ASH FIXER

Dharma Fiber Reactive Dye must be 'fixed' (made permanent) with Soda Ash. About 1 lb. Soda Ash per 4 oz. of dye is needed when garment dyeing or per 3 lbs of fabric as a pre-soak when tie-dyeing.

Stock# Product Details Quantity Dharma Price
#FIX1
  1 lb. (approx. 1.75 Cups)
$1.69
#FIX5
  5 lbs. (approx. 9 Cups)
$5.95
#FIX10
  10 lbs. (approx. 18 Cups)
$11.25
#FIX25
  25 lbs. (approx. 44 Cups)
$22.95
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 6 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Stock# Product Details Quantity 1-9 10-19 20+
#TTTDK
  Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit
$14.95
$13.66
$12.36
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Serious Tie-dye Starter Set

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 20 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Stock# Product Details Quantity 1-9 10-19 20+
#PROSS
  Serious Tie-Dye Group Kit
$25.95
$23.65
$21.36
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Tie-Dye Little Group Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 50 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Stock# Product Details Quantity Dharma Price
#PROGK50
 
$47.95
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Tie-Dye Big Group Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 100 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Stock# Product Details Quantity Dharma Price
#PROGK100
 
$74.95
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

noimage Everything you need to try out hand-dyeing fabric with Dharma Fiber Reactive Dyes. (Just add fabric!)
Stock# Product Details Quantity Dharma Price
#HDFSS
  Hand Dyed Fabric Starter Set
$41.50
#HDFSSNB
  Hand Dyed Fabric Starter Set - NO BOOK
Complete kit except for the book: Color by Accident
$19.50
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

IMG:PROCION DELUXE BATIK STARTER SET

Contains all the essentials for both tub dyeing and direct application methods of batik.

Stock# Product Details Quantity Dharma Price
#DBSSNB
  Deluxe Batik Starter Set / NO BOOK
$38.95
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

PRODUCT REVIEWS
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MOST HELPFUL REVIEWS
7/14/2008
5
We've been using this dye for years and definitley worth the extra effort (mixing chemicals like a mad scientist!). We used syringes (without the needle) to make awesome colors - just slurp up a bit of this and a bit of that and some water and you can get some outrageous colors but not too much of it so it saves dye. Thumbs up.
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28 of 29 users found this review helpful.
5/15/2008
5
Lovely colors easy to use if you do your research. Stay bight and clear through many washings. Wonderful to make quilting fabrics with. Fun to mix and create new colors and be as creative as you wish to be. A plus is the customer service!!!
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24 of 24 users found this review helpful.
9/12/2012
5
There is no comparison between this dye and Ritfabric store dyes. It's more work but it shows.. The old addage "if a little is good more must be better" DOES NOT apply here. I must say with my first batch (olive green) I followed the directions to the letter and it came out way darker than I wanted. For my second batch I used half the amount of dye and cut the soak times by more than 50 percent..... Still darker than I would have liked! Note to new users such as myself: you will need to experiment if you are set on a particular shade.Bottom line: It isnt rocket science... Set aside plenty of time - especially on your first go - and (considering the advice above) follow the directions. You'll have great results!One more note: Having a front loader I used the low foam Synthaprol to wash. I shudder to think of the amount of foam I would have had with regular Synthaprol as it was still VERY sudsy with LF!
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19 of 19 users found this review helpful.
7/12/2008
5
The best dye for tie-dye batik fabric dye painting etc. Colorfast for years easy to use and inexpensive. I absolutely recommend it.
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19 of 19 users found this review helpful.
12/12/2008
5
I've been using these dyes on silk using the microwave method for 2.5 years now. The dyes themselves are great and worth 5 stars but as an FYI for those planning on working with silk via this method the swatches are not consistently accurate. When I buy new ones I test on one of the 11x11 hankies to get a feel for the color - then I mix my colors to create when I am looking for... with great success I might add - one of my most complimented colors is one I concocted myself :) I've also used these on silk with the cold batch method and found that the colors were even more significantly different using that method - so I would not recommend that method with silk and these dyes... you can dye paint using the microwave method - you just need to get creative in how you put the scarf in the bag
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24 of 26 users found this review helpful.
MOST RECENT REVIEWS
3/10/2014
5
I've never had a bit of trouble with these dyes. They are a joy to use. I'm having a blast mixing my own customer colors. Can I give them 10 stars?
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0 of 0 users found this review helpful.
2/26/2014
5
What else can I Tie Dye! I'm having a blast with this stuff! Easy to use and great colors. Love it!
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0 of 0 users found this review helpful.
2/10/2014
1
I was excited to be able to dye mysewing projects to colors that I chose and I really wanted these dyes to be good. I ordered a dozen different colors and some of their fabrics and got to work dyeing.... not one of them has been even close to the portrayed color. Even on their own fabrics the colors are dull sickly and really disgusting looking. After having spent a lot of time and money on these projects having them come out these horrible colors was a huge disappointment. The gray turned out purple on multiple fabrics on multiple tries... at first I thought it was my error but after 4 tries meticulously following the instructions it was still purple. I tried contacting customer service twice about this with no response... needless to say I am never ordering from here again.
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2 of 13 users found this review helpful.
2/7/2014
4
great fun way to use color individually or in combination. just experiment til you get the results you likel
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1 of 1 users found this review helpful.
1/28/2014
5
I absolutely love these dyes! I have been introduced to the world of ice dyeing and these dyes have such a beautiful vibrant outcome. I started out with cheap Tulip dye and progressed to Procion dye and I will never go back!
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1 of 1 users found this review helpful.
1/12/2014
5
Dyeing wool sock yarn is an adventure and always a surprise.. that is to say I never get anything I expect so I have learned to expect the unexpected and to work with the results whatever they are. Five star rating for the use of this product with sock yarn as it's always knit in a tube so surprises are great. Having said that I never got the color on the color chips and now I add one color at a time so I can choose what to add by what I got. Endlessly fascinating and for a thinker the surprise aspect is a bonus. I can see how the surprise might not always be workable but for sock yarns especially GREAT stuff.
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0 of 0 users found this review helpful.
1/1/2014
5
Loved the look of the fabric I dyed. Can't wait to use it.
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1 of 1 users found this review helpful.
10/9/2013
5
These dyes are fabulous. I shop thrift stores and I've been able to resurrect some fabulous clothes that were in good shape just a bit faded or the wrong color. The dye result is rich and deep. Though I do mix my own colors I really love the pre-mixed blends to get more subtle shades. Very reliable fun to work with and the colors are more durable than factory dyes in many cases.
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1 of 1 users found this review helpful.

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