Group Tie-Dye Instructions for Schools, Camps, Parties, Etc.

INTRODUCTION

The Soda Soak Tie-Dye Method is the way to do this. Our recipes, abbreviated group instructions, and a lot of patterns using this method are in the new book, "Tie-dye" (#BTD), which we include in our larger (50/100 shirt) Group Kits.

Basically, you follow the Soda Soak Tie-Dye instructions en-mass. In a nutshell, what you do is fold and tie up the shirts (or whatever), soak them in a solution of soda ash and water for a few minutes, apply a solution of dye, water and urea, let them sit overnight in plastic bags, rinse them, untie them, rinse them some more, and wash them in a washing machine with synthrapol and hot water. Thats it! Easy!

The Dharma group kits have all the basics except the clothing, which we carry at very reasonable prices. Dharma white clothing is 100% cotton and tie-dyes beautifully. It is also very reasonably priced. If having the thread of the garment also dye is important to you, watch for the little cotton plant icon on the clothing ad - if you don't see that icon, it is sewn with Polyester thread, which stays white. If you get your clothing elsewhere, make sure it's not a polyester blend! You'll get a very washed out look.

Other odds and ends you will need are: •large tables covered with plastic (card tables or picnic tables work) •buckets for the soda ash solution (plastic is best - 5 gallon is a nice size) •old newspapers (at least 6-8 weeks old-so the ink doesn't come off) to absorb the excess dye under the clothing being tie-dyed •bowls of water to rinse gloved fingers between colors •measuring cups-2 cups or larger-clear pyrex works great •measuring spoons and spoons for stirring the dyes •Jugs with TIGHT fitting lids to hold large amounts of pre-mixed dye •a funnel - to pour premixed dye solution into squirt bottles •paper towels and/or sponges to wipe up messes! •big garbage can or bags for trash

Optional things:

• More rubber bands if doing complicated ties
• More gloves if more than 12 people dyeing at once
• Waterproof aprons, especially with young children - or at least have them wear old clothes
• "Reduran" cream to get dye off hands (see our catalog-it works good!)
• Zip-lock plastic bags - if the students are going to take the clothing home to do the rinse out and wash (give them xerox of rinsing instructions - this is the easiest way to go for the instructors!)-otherwise, completed items can just be covered with plastic to stay damp overnight.

PREPARATION (before the session starts):

It is best to have the tables all set up, covered with plastic, etc., before everyone shows up. Each work area should have newspapers, rubber bands, gloves, finger rinsing bowl, paper towels or a sponge, a bucket of premixed soda ash (allow about a gallon of soda ash mix for each 8-10 adult t-shirts - (1 lb of soda ash makes 2 gallons), and squirt bottles of premixed dye in the selected colors. It is always best to use freshly made up dye, so you can mix it the morning of the class, or the night before at most. This allows for the brightest possible color. Mix the dye in bulk, then use funnels to fill and re-fill the squirt bottles as needed.

To mix up the dye in quantities you need, one way is to just multiply our 8 oz recipe by the number of cups of each color you will need - how to figure that out, you say? Well...

An example:

Tie-dyeing 50 t-shirts in 3 colors, using 4 "stations" with 12 to13 students at each station:

1. Soda ash soak: 4 buckets, ~2 1/2 gallons each, will take 5 lbs of Soda Ash
2. Dye: 3 colors in 16 oz squeeze bottles will tie-dye 12-13 shirts at ea station, unless people really pour on the dye - (so for 4 stations, you need 12 bottles - kit has 6 - need 6 more)

You can also use this as a guide to help you decide how much dye to mix up. Check the name of each color on the label of the jar, some colors need more dye, they are marked with an * or ** by the name. An already wet, tied up adult tee will absorb about 4 oz of liquid dye, depending on how much you apply.

ACTUAL PROJECT:

You can demonstrate tyeing to the whole group first, showing them how to tie their garments-then have everyone do it at their station while it is fresh in their memory. Then all the shirts can be soaked in the soda ash 5-10 min. (Use gloves!) During that time you can demonstrate how to apply the dye on a pre-tied and soaked garment. Be sure and demonstrate how to get the dye into the folds! Then turn 'em loose! After garments are dyed, lay them all out on newspaper with plastic over the top to keep them damp for the curing process, making sure that shirts don't touch each other, or have each student put their garment in a zip lock plastic bag. Then, have the students help clean up!

step 1: mix your dyes ahead of time

Wear your dust mask & gloves! Measure urea and warm water into a container, an old pitcher works well. Use the chart above for amounts. Paste up your dye with the urea water (see below), then add rest of water and stir ‘till thoroughly dissolved. You can store it in jugs with tight fitting lids to take to the event. Pour into jugs and later, the squeeze bottles with a funnel.

step 2: fold and tie garments

Have the attendees fold and/or tie the fabric into the desired patterns. For more defined patterns wet the shirt and squeeze or spin out excess water before folding. We have several books and DVDs with great pattern ideas!

step 2: soak garments in soda ash solution

When mixing, wear your dust mask & gloves! Use - 1 cup (8 oz.) of Soda Ash Fixer per gallon of warm water. Use one gallon to soak every 10-12 adult XL tees – so way more kids tees, fewer dresses, etc. Have some centrally located stations of dissolved soda ash in buckets near the dyeing tables.

Have attendees bring the tied garments over to the the soda soak stations. Soak the tied garments about 5-15 minutes - if someone with thick waterproof gloves carefully and gently squeezes the soda ash water into the garments, soaking time can be reduced to a minute. Squeeze out the garment so it is damp but not dripping. You can reuse solution until gone.

step 4: squirt dye on garments

Attendees now apply dye with squeeze bottles, paint brushes, sponges, etc., as many colors as you want. (see below for tips).

step 5: let it rest

Have everyone put dyed garments  in individual zip lock bags (you want to keep it damp). Make sure garments are not dripping so much dye that they are going to sit in a pool of mixed colors. Let it cure for at least 4 hours but preferably 24 hours for the brightest colors. In temperatures below 70º F, it takes longer.

step 6: rinse and wash it out

Pre-fill your washing machine with HOT water and 1/4 cup Synthrapol or Professional Textile Detergent. These are special detergents that help get the excess dye out so it won't bleed and run in future washings. Rinse the tie-dyes thoroughly before putting in the machine. Use gloves! Leaving ties on, rinse under cold running water (faucet, hose or shower), to stop the dye reaction. Next rinse in warm water while you untie the folds, keep rinsing until water runs fairly clear. Remember, good rinsing procedure keeps the clothes from looking "muddy" and colors from running over each other into white areas. You can't skimp on water! Before washing, don't let the dyed clothing touch anything! Throw in machine as soon as it is rinsed, running it through a full cycle. Don't wash more than the equivilant of about 8 adult size t-shirts at a time or the water gets too muddy. You can use Milsoft professional fabric softener in the final rinse to make your tie-dyes super soft!.

**For large group tie-dye parties, copy the wash out instructions above and give them to everyone. Each person or family can take home their tie-dyes in ziplock baggies and do the rinse and wash at home. Much easier! Students could bring little jars to take some Synthrapol home in - it can eat through plastic baggies! If it is impractical to send Synthrapol or P.T.D. home with them, have them substitute Dawn liquid dish soap and wash no more than 4-5 shirts per load, as it does not work as well.

• Any natural fiber is great for tie-dye: cotton, rayon, hemp, linen, ramie etc. If you can’t find 100% natural shirts a 90% cotton and 10% polyester or lycra is ok, but avoid 50/50 blends (come out very pale).
• It is always good to pre-wash your fabric and garments; fabric softeners and other finishes can prevent the dye from absorbing into the fiber.
• Cover your work surfaces with old newspapers or folded paper towels to absorb extra dye. Elevating the garment of the table is great to, we like old cookie cooling racks for this. Be sure to wear old clothes, dye will stain!
• Make sure you get everything covered with dye. After applying dye to one side, flip garment over and repeat the process. Inject the tip of the squeeze bottle into the folds for best dye penetration and less white on the final product.
• Got a leaky Squirt bottle? A couple wraps of white Teflon plumber's tape around the threads solves this problem perfectly. It is cheap and available at any hardware store. No tie-dyer should be without it!
• In step 4 any method keeping the fabric wet is OK, needn't be a plastic bag — cover many with plastic drop cloth, wrap in plastic wrap, etc. The warmer the temperature where you lay out your tie-dyes to cure, the quicker the chemical reaction.
• Use Water Softener if you suspect you have "hard" water
• DON'T USE HOT WATER. The dyes work best in lukewarm water (105 degrees). #250- Jet Black does like hot water (140 degrees)and does NOT do well for tie-dye (unless you cure your tie-dyes under an electric blanket!).
• Urea helps dye to dissolve, so dissolve the Urea in the water first. Add this water to the dye powder gradually and paste it up to avoid lumps. Undissolved dye makes "explosions" of color or "freckles", so if a color is difficult to dissolve, straining through some light fabric might be necessary. Coffee filters only work if the dye is really liquid. Otherwise, they filter out too much of the dye
• With this dye, there is always lots of "excess dye" to be washed out. Don't crowd your washing machine with too much tie-dye or the water gets too muddy and so will your tie-dyes. A key to clear, brilliant tie-dyes is the rinse and washout procedure - don't skimp!

variations

Check out these basic folding Patterns on our website (For more advanced folds Check out the books and DVDs!):

or...

• Dye shirt a solid color first using Tub Dyeing Method, then tie-dye using above method.
• After step 4, untie and re-tie in contrasting pattern.
• After tie-dyeing item, re-tie and use Discharge paste to bleach out a contrasting pattern.
• Sprinkle pure Procion powder onto tied and pre-soaked item for different effects (super intense color! Use a salt shaker with lots of salt and some dye for a lighter application)

CARE:

Since procion dyes are "fiber reactive", they are very permanent and will not fade or bleed. Bleach or detergents containing bleach should not be used! If the garments have been properly rinsed and washed, they are safe to throw in with the family laundry!