Fabric: Decoration & Cutwork

The first step is to draw the motif that is to be embroidered and cut (cutwork — Indonesian name Kerawang) onto the "kalkir" paper. This is an Indonesian word and, to be honest, the exact translation is uncertain, but it refers to the standard chemically treated paper used for hand screen printing. The kalkir paper is stretched across the screen frame and the motif is etched onto it so that the dye can seep through the holes and the motif can be seen on the fabric beneath.

The second step is to hand screen print the motif onto the fabric to be embroidered and cut. In some cases the fabric has already been cut and sewn into a garment; in other cases the fabric is still uncut. It is the motif and the style of the garment which determines whether the fabric should be cut and sewn first, or printed and embroidered first before cutting and sewing.

The third step shows the white dye being spread onto the fabric beneath the screen, which will result in a white outline on the fabric showing the motif to be embroidered.

This shows the fabric once the motif has been screen printed onto it and before the embroidery and cutwork begins. The base fabric was hand dyed from white to red before the motif was hand screen printed onto it.

This photo shows a garment already cut and sewn with a cardboard insert so that when the garment is hand screen printed the white dye will not seep through to the other side. The screen is placed on top and the dye is hand pushed along it, causing the white dye to fall through the small holes of the motif drawn onto the kalkir paper.

This photo shows the garment from the previous step with the screen on top and the white dye being pushed through the holes so that the motif appears on the fabric below.

Here a motif is being cut out of cardboard which will be placed on the fabric or garment, and then the dye will be blow-gunned onto it. This is another method of applying the motif to fabric. The choice between hand screen printing and the blow gun technique is determined by the style of garment and the motif.

This photo shows the fabric being embroidered after the motif has been hand screen printed or blow-gunned onto it. For standard embroidery an electric sewing machine can be used. The sewer follows the line of the motif which has been printed onto the fabric.

A close-up of the fabric from the previous photo showing the motif being embroidered and the cutwork that has already been cut.

A piece of dyed fabric showing the embroidery and cutwork after dyeing.

This photo shows the embroidery process using an electric machine. This fabric will not be cut using the cutwork technique — it will only be embroidered.

A close-up of the cutwork technique — the fabric is being embroidered then cut. The sewing machine used is a foot pedal machine so that there is more control; an electric machine would be too fast and difficult to manage precisely.

The same technique as above, showing clearly the sewing method for cutwork. This technique is traditionally from a small town in West Java called Tasik Malaya, where very high standards of embroidery have been achieved. It is thought that the original cutwork came from China — traditional antique Chinese blouses can be found throughout Indonesia featuring full cutwork embroidery on the sleeves, neck, and hem.