Batik- Introduction

Batik is a wax-resist fiber art. Hot wax is applied to fabric in a design, preventing the dye from reaching the fabric wherever it was applied. This technique can be built up in layers with different colors. The batik effect is unique in that the wax cracks during handling — either intentionally or not — and in each dye bath those cracks allow the dye to reach the fabric, creating the characteristic batik look.

Batik can be done on cottons, silks and other natural fabrics. "Faux" batik employs other types of resists, particularly water-soluble ones that are easier to remove than wax, but never quite achieve the same beautiful crackling. Dharma Procion MX Fiber Reactive Dyes are the dye of choice for batik on cotton because they are used with cold water.

Artwork by Sue C. Duda

Batik masters employ a process of repeated waxing and tub dyeing to achieve their final result. This method requires an understanding of color mixing and overdyeing, as each layer of dye is applied over the last, producing a new color. After many applications, the background tends toward dark brown, black or grey. The waxed areas remain the lighter shades produced by each individual dye application and combinations thereof.

Waxing and Immersion Method

1. Pre-wash your fabric, ideally with Dharma Dyers Detergent. This removes oils, sizings, and pre-shrinks the fabric. It is best to use PFD (Prepared For Dyeing) or RTD (Ready To Dye) fabric that has not been treated with finishes like permanent press, which will prevent the dye from adhering. Iron out any wrinkles.
2. Stretch the fabric on a frame or hoop that will keep it flat and horizontal.
3. Use pre-mixed Batik Wax, or your own combination of Beeswax, Sticky Wax and Paraffin. The more paraffin, the more the wax will crackle — beeswax and sticky wax alone don't crackle, while paraffin alone crackles too much. Melt the wax mixture in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set to about 220–240°F. Caution: if you heat wax past its flash point it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames!
4. Apply the wax using a Tjanting for outlining and natural fiber brushes to fill in areas. Wax designs can also be stamped repeatedly with metal stamps called "chops," as done in Indonesia — these must be symmetrical so they can be lined up and stamped on the reverse side to ensure no dye penetrates. Regulate temperature so the wax penetrates the fabric: not so cool that it sits on top looking yellowish, and not so hot that lines spread too much. The wax should appear clear, indicating it has penetrated through. For easier temperature control, an Electric Tjanting with a rheostat is a great option.
5. Mix up Dharma Procion MX Fiber Reactive Dye as instructed for tub dyeing.
6. Tub dye the fabric, starting with the lightest color that will mix well with successive colors — yellow is a good starting point. The next dye bath could be turquoise, which would mix with the remaining yellow to dye the fabric green in all unwaxed areas. Note: after Soda Ash has been added to the dye bath, don't leave your waxed fabric in for more than 30 minutes, as soda ash will eventually eat away the wax and expose areas to unwanted dye.
7. Rinse and gently hand wash in Dharma Dyers Detergent, then allow to dry. Use cool water so as not to melt the wax.
8. Repeat steps 2–6 for each color, waxing over areas after each dye bath that you want to retain that color, and re-waxing any areas that look eroded. Save your darkest colors for last. The final combination of all colors used will yield a brown, grey or black in the unwaxed areas. Tip: do a test strip first with all of your planned colors to make sure they combine the way you want.

Wax Removal

Wax removal can be accomplished in one of four ways:

1. Dry cleaning. Take it to the dry cleaner and let them remove the wax. Note that some dry cleaners won't do this.
2. Boiling. This is the oldest form of batik wax removal. Fill a pot large enough to hold your fabric with water and a dash of Dharma Dyers Detergent. Bring to a simmer and add the fabric, stirring to keep it submerged. After a few minutes the wax will boil out and float to the top. Once the wax appears fully removed, take off the heat and let the water cool. Keep the fabric at the bottom of the pot, away from the floating wax residue. Once cool, peel off the hardened wax and remove the fabric. In Indonesia, dyers skim the hot melted wax off boiling vats with large perforated ladles.
3. Ironing. Sandwich the fabric between layers of absorbent Newsprint and apply heat with an iron to melt the wax out. This process often leaves a wax residue that is very difficult to remove, so it is not generally recommended.
4. Hot water. Hang the finished piece on a line with a collection tub underneath. Attach a hose to a hot water spigot, turn your water heater up all the way, and run hot water over the piece to melt the wax off.