Ice Dyeing with Acid Dye on Wool and Silk

We love ice dyeing, sprinkling the dyes, the surprise of opening the fabric and the final bright colors. Most of the time ice dyers work with plant based fibers and Fiber Reactive dyes, but it IS possible to ice dye wool and silk with Acid Dyes. The process is a bit different and folks have been asking, so here you go. This is our preferred method when ice dyeing both silk and wool.

Shopping list:

• Dharma Acid Dyes or Jacquard Acid Dyes powder (avoid primary colors that won't split)
• Citric Acid or Vinegar
• Silk/Wool Blend Scarves
• Flat Crepe Scarves
• Dharma Dyers Detergent
• Ice, large or small chunks
• Plastic Tub to catch Ice and dye run off
• Rack to fit inside plastic tub
• Plastic wrap
• Spray bottle
• Plastic wrap or a ziplock bag
• Plastic spoons
• Dust masks
• Rubber Gloves
• Measuring cups and spoons

Let's get started!

Pre-wash fabric with Dyers Detergent. Washing the wool or silk is important because it removes any dirt, oils or sericin that could be on the fiber.

Crunch or pleat your damp wool or silk fabric and arrange it on the rack over a plastic tub to catch the dripping water and dye. You can create dams with foil to contain your ice and keep it on top of the fiber.

Cover the fabric with ice, try to cover everything so it will melt all the way through the fabric.

Wearing your dust mask, sprinkle the dry acid dye powders over the ice (DOI). You have to guess where the wool is under the ice if you don't contain your piece with a foil fence. Some prefer to sprinkle the dye on and then put the ice on top of it (DUI). You can experiment to see which technique you like best.

Let the ice melt completely.

Remove your foil fence if you made one around your fiber. Mix two tablespoons of vinegar or one tablespoon of citric acid with 16 ounces of water in a spray bottle. While the wool is still on the rack, spray the acid solution all over your wool or silk, saturating the fiber thoroughly.

Squeeze gently to remove excess moisture from the fiber.

Carefully move the bundle to a microwave safe bowl or wrap it in plastic wrap to prepare it for setting in the microwave or steaming. Whichever method you are most comfortable with is fine but steam setting will give the most wash fast result.

Microwave Instructions:

Place fabric carefully into a glass bowl and plastic wrap or plastic zip lock bag and leave one inch open. Try not to disturb your arrangement too much. On the high setting, microwave for 30-45 seconds, let it rest for 30 seconds between and then repeat, for a total of ~3 minutes microwaving time. Let the fabric cool completely before opening the bag or unwrapping it. Give the fabric a quick wash in tepid water to remove any unfixed dye. Hang the fabric to dry.

For steaming instructions see our Space Dyed Yarn Tutorial

Some possible color combinations:

• #419 Cayenne Red, #427 Sand Dune, #449 Vanilla Cream
• #427 Sand Dune, #476 Toner Black, #479 Radioactive
• #465 Lichen, #470 Berry Crush, #476 Toner Black
• #460 Saffron Spice, #486 Champagne, #473 Spearmint Breeze or #485 Frozen Blue