Batik - Paint On Method

The steps for this process are few and relatively easy. The Immersion Method is more advanced but takes longer.

1. Pre-wash your fabric, ideally with Dharma Dyers Detergent. This removes most oils, sizings, and pre-shrinks the fabric. It is best to use PFD (Prepared for Dyeing) or RTD (Ready to Dye) fabric that has not been treated with finishes like starch or permanent press, which will prevent the dye from adhering. Iron out any wrinkles.
2. Soak the fabric in a solution of Soda Ash to fix the dye. Let dry completely so the wax will adhere properly.
3. Stretch the fabric on a frame or hoop that will keep it flat and horizontal.
4. Use pre-mixed Batik Wax, or your own combination of Beeswax or Sticky Wax and Paraffin. The more paraffin, the more the wax will crackle — beeswax and sticky wax alone don't crackle, while paraffin alone crackles too much. Melt the wax mixture in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set to about 220–240°F. Caution: heating wax above 250°F can produce toxic smoke or cause it to burst into flames. Apply the wax using a Tjanting for outlining and natural fiber brushes to fill in areas. Wax designs can also be stamped with metal stamps called "chops," as done in Indonesia — these must be symmetrical so they can be lined up and stamped on the exact same spot on the reverse side to ensure no dye penetrates. Regulate temperature so the wax penetrates the fabric: not so cool that it sits on top looking yellowish, and not so hot that lines spread too much. The wax should appear clear, indicating it has penetrated through. For easier temperature control, an Electric Tjanting with a rheostat maintains the wax at the correct temperature automatically.
5. Mix up a Procion dye solution as instructed in the Soda Soak Tie-Dye Recipe — be sure to include the Urea! This yields a dye paint that can be applied directly to the fabric. Paint the dye where your design will be, keep it wet, and allow the dye to cure for 12–48 hours. Curing should be done horizontally to avoid streaking and running.
6. After the dye has cured, wash the fabric to remove excess dye. This step is very important — any dye left on the fabric will create a mess during the final wax removal step. Rinse carefully, hand wash in cool water with Dharma Dyers Detergent, then allow to dry.
7. If a colored background is desired, spread wax over any areas you wish to remain the current color once the fabric is completely dry. Then follow our instructions for tub dyeing (or tie-dyeing for a more interesting background effect). After adding Soda Ash, allow the fabric to soak in the dye bath for no more than 30 minutes, or the wax will begin to erode.
8. Wax removal can be accomplished in one of four ways:
   1. Dry cleaning. Take it to the dry cleaner and let them remove the wax. Note that some dry cleaners won't do this.
   2. Boiling. Fill a pot large enough to hold your fabric with water and a dash of Dharma Dyers Detergent. Bring to a simmer and add the fabric, stirring to keep it submerged. After a few minutes the wax will boil out and float to the top. Once the wax appears fully removed, take off the heat and let cool. Keep the fabric at the bottom of the pot, away from the floating wax residue. Once cool, peel off the hardened wax and remove the fabric. In Indonesia, dyers skim the melted wax off boiling vats with large perforated ladles.
   3. Ironing. Sandwich the fabric between layers of absorbent newsprint and apply heat with an iron to melt the wax out. This process often leaves a wax residue that is very difficult to remove, so it is not generally recommended.
   4. Hot water. Hang the finished piece on a line with a collection tub underneath. Attach a hose to a hot water spigot, turn your water heater up all the way, and run hot water over the piece to melt the wax off.