Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes

The #1 Best Dye for Tie-Dye & dyeing Cotton

 4.82 ( 3550 review )

USE FOR: Tie-Dye, Tub or washing machine Dyeing (solid color), Low Immersion Dyeing, Batik, Dye Painting, Silk Painting, Screen & Block Printing or Stenciling, even Tie-dyeing Silk in a Microwave

USE ON: All natural Fibers (Cotton, Rayon, Hemp, Linen, Silk, etc.), Wood, Cane, and Rattan

Limited Edition Fiber Reactive Falltones For 2019

Limited Edition Fiber Reactive Springtones For 2019

Introducing 6 New Fiber Reactive Colors

All Our Original Fiber Reactive Colors

How to decide which black is right for you...

Colors with * require 2x as much dye.

Colors with * * require 4x as much dye.

Colors marked (T) contain #25 Turquoise these colors:

1. Require more rinsing to remove the excess dye than do other colors.

2. Warmer tap water (up to 130°F) when vat dyeing, can yield deeper shades.

3. Using Glauber's salt instead of plain salt when vat dyeing can also improve results.

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Our Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion type dye is the dye of choice for all cellulose fibers, like cotton, rayon, hemp, bamboo, Tencel, etc. They are even sometimes used for silk because they are so economical. This is the dye you've seen on tie-dyes on the street, at fairs, festivals and concerts - the colors are brilliant and permanent. They don't fade, even after repeated washings. Because they don't come off, they are even safe on infant clothing and clothing for chemically sensitive folks, once excess dye and chemicals are properly washed out. They are economical, and easy to use. Superior to supermarket dyes in every way! Buy in small quantities, or in bulk or in kits.

If you have never used these Professional dyes before, you need to know that certain chemicals are required (like Soda Ash Fixative) and others are recommended, for these dyes to work properly. Click the tabs below for complete description and instructions for the numerous techniques you can use these dyes for. Read the instructions for your chosen technique(s) to see what else you will need. Also it is good practice to use a dust mask when mixing dye powders and chemicals, as well as gloves. We provide those in our tie-dye kits and sell them separately here. 

 Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion type Dyes are good for all the techniques listed below and more!

Use Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion type Dyes for:

We also have four Fiber Reactive Dye Tie-Dye Kits:

We have also chosen some popular color combination Palettes for you here!

Colors above (from samples done on cotton) are intended as a guide. They may vary from monitor to monitor (depending on the quality and your personal settings) and may not match actual dyed fabrics. Some colors can shift dramatically on proteins such as silk and wool (for example, black gives a lovely maroon or brown). Colors can shift due to water conditions, temperature, etc., and dyelots can vary sometimes. When your end color needs to be very specific, we recommend a test first, before dyeing your main project or going into production. All of the colors can be mixed for an endless pallet!

A Few Things About Purchasing Dye:

Colors without a star require 1 level tablespoon (1/4 to 1/2 oz.) for each lb. of fabric to closely match the color card. Note that more precise results can be achieved using a scale and our Procion Dye Yields Estimator.

Colors with * require 2X as much dye.

Colors with * * require 4X as much dye.

Colors marked (T) contain #25 Turquoise these colors:

1. Require more rinsing to remove the excess dye than do other colors.
2. Warmer tap water (up to 130°F) when vat dyeing, can yield deeper shades.
3. Using Glauber's salt instead of plain salt when vat dyeing can also improve results.

For best tub dyed blacks, use Dharma Dye Fixative in a soak after dyeing. Black is a tough color - use a lot of dye and when vat dyeing, double the salt. Do NOT use most Fiber Reactive Procion Dye Blacks to get black on silk, use acid dye on wool and silk for solid black. An exception is our new #275 - Hot Black. With Soda Ash on silk is a deep blackish brown; with vinegar on silk, came out black in our tests, on silk and a less deep shade of black on wool. 

 

Dharma Fiber Reactive Dyes - Usage Instructions

You can do all these things with Fiber Reactive Dyes! - hands down the best dyes for cotton, rayon, hemp, linen and other natural fibers.

Tie-dye (multiple colors in patterns) Tub Dyeing (solid color/one color) Low Immersion Dyeing (very textural) Batik Direct Application: Painting, Printing and Stamping with Dye (instead of paint) Marbling General and important Information about Fiber Reactive Dyes

Dharma's Fiber Reactive MX Dyes FAQ

Question:

What makes Fiber Reactive dyes unique from other dyes? What are all the different ways to make it permanent ("fix" it) on cellulose, and on protein.

Answer:

Fiber reactive dyes, like Procion MX, bond with the fiber at a molecular level, becoming chemically part of the fabric. On cellulose soda ash is the primary fixer. On protein you can use soda ash,but it can damage silk if you soak it for long periods of time. We also recommend using less soda ash for tie dye and tub dyeing. (Let the tie dye sit for a shorter period of time, ie: 4 hrs.) Also, colors may shift on silk. Blue does not combine well with silk, causing all mixes with blue in them to shift toward the other colors in the mix, ie black goes brown or maroon, purple goes raspberry, forest green goes chartreuse, etc.. Vinegar or baking soda can be used with silk as a substitute for soda ash. They require heat for vat dyeing and steam setting for direct application. Some folks use the microwave in creative ways. Procion is not highly recommended for wool as many of the colors break down under the high heat that wool needs in order to dye properly.

Question:

I'm a novice dyer and I'm having trouble with one of the Procion MX dye colors in a dyebath situation. The color is not what I expected. What are the variables that can help me find out what the problem is? When is the problem "fixable" and when is it not?

Answer:

What are you dyeing: cotton, linen, hemp etc.? * What color is it before dyeing?
* What color did you buy?
* Do you have hard water?
* How much does the fabric weigh?
* How much water did you use and how much salt?
* Is the salt plain or iodized?
* How much dye did you use?
* What temperature is the water?
* Did you follow the directions accurately?
* Is the color too light? Dye again
* Is the color too dark? Discharge or bleach and then dye again. This may require a change of color choice.
* Colors are spotty or streaky? Not enough room in the dyebath or not stirred enough. The garment or fabric possibly not totally clean before dyeing. Dry chemicals and salt not dissolved well before entering the dyebath. Solution? See Color too dark.
* Wrong color entirely? Over dye for a different color, or see Color too dark.
* Most problems can be fixed if you are willing to take the extra time and effort.

Question:

Why is mixing dyes to achieve desired colors different from mixing pigments? When looking at dyes or paints, how would you determine what the "primary colors" are (if the catalog didn't tell you). If I want to mix all of my own colors of procion mx dye, how many should I get and what colors would you recommend?

Answer:

Dyes are transparent, pigments are not. Pure colors in dye (primaries) are colors that cannot be mixed from other colors but can be used to create a variety of colors. Primaries in pigments are generally pure colors. Procion lemon yellow, fuchsia and turquoise are the primaries. Pigment primaries are yellow, true red and true blue. To mix all your own colors, we would recommend lemon yellow, fuchsia and turquoise, with the addition of navy, cerulean, cobalt and sky blues. Include golden yellow, fire red, scarlet, chinese red and new black. With the possible choices of maroon brown and deep orange. All fourteen colors should give you plenty of options.

Question:

Which is the best fiber reactive black dye to use?

Answer:

We have 5 black fiber reactive dyes, each with a different color cast. They all work well in direct application methods like tie-dye where the fabric is kept moist long enough for the dye to develop full depth. You will see, however, some differences depending upon which one you use and your particular situation and techniques. When vat-dyeing (when you are dyeing a solid color shade) there are also differences:

  • #200 Raven Black- NEW! vat dyes with a deep blue/purple cast and edges are blue/purple in tie dye. Of the 3 blacks that work in cooler water, this one gives the deepest black in tub dyeing.
  • #44 Better Black-vat dyes with a blue cast and edges are blue/green in tie-dye.
  • #300 New Black-Vat dyes with a blue cast and edges are blue/pink in tie-dye.
  • #39 Black - our oldest original black, was never as good as the newer blacks, and unfortunately we need to discontinue it due to lack of sales. Will still be available for special order in quantities of 5 lbs and up.
  • #250 Jet Black - This is the most concentrated of all the blacks and gives the deepest black when used in vat dyeing with HOT tap water (130-150F degrees). If you use with cooler water, as with batik, can come out anywhere from grey to pea green! Can only be used in tie-dye if you have a way of heating it while it "cures", like covering your tie-dyes with plastic and then an electric blanket or curing under black plastic in the hot sun. Edges are green in tie-dye.
  • #275 Hot Black - NEW! - Also best tub dyed in hot (150° to 180°F) water, like the #250, which it was replacing when #250 was temporarily unavailable. Now it is a less expensive alternative. Tub dyes with a deep but bluish black cast on cotton. With Soda Ash on silk is a deep blackish brown, with vinegar on silk, came out black in our tests and a less deep shade of black on wool. #250 Jet has never come out black on silk or wool. This is the ONLY Fiber Reactive black that works on silk! Tie-dye came out really black for us in warm ambient room temp of 80°F or more! At cool temps it comes out more blueish. If you are looking for a different black, give it a try. 

Black is a tough color to get. You have to use a lot of dye and in vat dyeing, you need to double the salt. We recommend our new Raven Black or a 1/2 and 1/2 combination of #44 and #300 for the blackest black in tie dye.

Question:

How long do the dyes last? 

Answer:

Stored closed in a cool dry place, the dye powder can last for several years but it will get gradually weaker. Every color is different so do a test if the dye has been stored for a few years. Once the dye powder is mixed with water it should be used within 3 days for the best, brightest results but some colors work fine for up to 2 weeks. If the dyes are combined with soda ash, they weaken FAST - they may last for an hour or so - again each color is different. Heat and moisture will make both the liquefied and the powdered dyes get weaker faster. Store them cool and away from moisture. Test first, if in doubt!

 

Question:

What does the Soda Ash do in a dyebath?

Answer:

When you add salt and dye to the dyebath along with the fabric the absorbed dye is locked in the fabric so it will not wash off. The color becomes permanent by adding a solution of dissolved soda ash to the dyebath raising the pH of the water. This allows the dye molecules to react chemically with the fiber molecules. It takes about an hour for this reaction to occur fully and set the dye.

Question:

What does the salt do in a dyebath?

Answer:

The salt helps the dye stick to the fabric. The greater the amount of salt used, the higher the absorption and the deeper the color will be.

Question:

What is Afterfix and how do I use it?

Answer:

Afterfix sets the Procion Dye in the fiber after you have painted the dye on. Just mix the dye with water and a little thickener and paint with it on your fabric. When it's dry cover the painted area with Dharma's Afterfix by painting it on over the dye. After an hour, wash out the Afterfix and the excess dye.

Question:

What does Glauber Salt do?

Answer:

Glauber Salt improves the yield of Turquoise in that it gives more intense color. Use it in place of and in the same proportions as plain salt when dyeing solid shades of Turquoise or colors mixed with Turquoise.

Question:

What is Ludigal?

Answer:

Ludigal is a mild oxidizing agent that helps to prevent dyes from decomposing during fixation.

Question:

What is a fiber reactive dye and what does this mean?

Answer:

Reactive dyes take their name from the fact that they chemically react with the fiber molecules to form a dye-fiber bond. This strong bond between the dye and the fiber imparts excellent wash- and light-fastness. These dyes require two auxiliaries; first salt which acts as an electrolyte that reduces the solubility of the dye. If the dissolution of the dye is controlled in this way a more even dyeing will take place as the dye will be absorbed in the fibers at a steady rate, rather than all at once. The second auxiliary required is soda ash which increases the pH of the dye bath which enables the dye to react with the fiber molecules and fix onto the cloth.

Question:

The dye instructions for Procion Dye tells me to use various amount of salt, urea and oil. What are these additives for?

Answer:

Salt is used in the dyeing process as an electrolyte that aids in the absorption of the dyes into the fabric. Urea is a "moisture drawing" agent which keeps the fabric damper longer during the fixing process, thereby making for deeper, brighter colors. Oil, such as calsolene Oil is a wetting agent used when dyeing tightly woven fabrics for increasing the evenness of dyeing.

Question:

Can I dye wood or reed?

Answer:

Yes you can. First be certain there is no residue or finish on the wood or reed to prevent the dye from seeping in. Determine the amount of water needed to cover the material. For each gallon of water add 1 TBL. of Procion dye (pre-dissolved) and 1/2 cup plain salt. Mix thoroughly. Put material to be dyed into dyebath and turn frequently for 20 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of Soda Ash for each gallon of water used. (Pre-dissolved in hot water and add slowly). Leave in dyebath for up to 2 more hours or until the desired shade is reached. Rinse under running cold water to remove excess dye and dry.

Question:

What is the Cold-Batch Method? How do I dye using this method?

Answer:

The Cold Batch Method:
For applying the dye directly onto the fabric.
Excellent for the Dye painting, Serti technique on silk and Ikat warp painting on wool or cotton as well as just painting.
The following method for using Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion dye is one of the best ways to paint the dye directly onto the fabric. The dye can be thickened with DyeHouse Thickener and used like a fabric paint or the thickener can be left out for water color and wash effects and for the French Serti technique of painting on silk. This method does not require any pre-treatment of the fabric, but the fabric must be "cured" after dyeing, and after mixing up the dye, it must be used up that day.
The first step is to make a cold batch chemical water which can be stored a month or more in the refrigerator. (Make sure it's sealed and labeled!)
The chemical water is made by mixing the following ingredients together:
1. 3/4 cup Urea (dissolve in hot water if necessary)
2. 1 quart water (add a little Water Softener if needed)
3. Add Thickener (sodium alginate) gradually to suit your use, from a tsp up to 4 tsp. Start with one tsp and add more very gradually while you stir to avoid lumps. Allow to set for 2 hours or over-night as it will continue to thicken.
Pour off the amount of chemical water you need for one color (for ease of measurement use 1 cup increments).
To each cup of chemical water add:
1 tsp. Soda Ash Fixer (be sure it dissolves)
Dye to taste (try a pre-dissolved concentrate and drip & stir until color is right).
Do the above for each color you intend to use. Don't mix more than you need for one work session as the addition of the Soda Ash Fixer commences the chemical action and it begins to set, the mixture gradually loses strength and four to six hours later is about half exhausted.
Using the freshly mixed colors paint or print directly onto the fabric.
Let it dry until damp, cover or wrap in plastic or otherwise stop the drying process and let sit for:
12 hours for pastels
48 hours for deep shades
Rinse in running cold water then wash out excess dye using Synthrapol and let dry.

Question:

Which dyes work best on cellulose, silk and wool?

Answer:

Procion® MX - For painting or tub dyeing. Dyes the cellulose (cotton/hemp) like the color chart. Often the protein(silk) comes out a different color, especially colors with blue in them-most of the blue will be absent on the silk- so for example, with #18 deep purple, you would get purple pile (the rayon) and raspberry backing (the silk) on devore velvet. Very cool!! Careful, soda ash is hard on the silk. Limit the time of exposure, or use baking soda instead, and steam, microwave or simmer on the stove.
Procion® H -For painting. Dyes the cellulose and the protein the same color.
Acid Dye for Wool and Silk - For tub dyeing. Dyes the silk really well, stains the cellulose a much lighter shade.

Question:

What's the difference between Dharma Dye Fixative, Retayne, and Dharma Afterfix.

Answer:

Afterfix is Sodium Silicate, a liquid with the consistency of honey. It is an alkali like Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) or Baking Soda, only a liquid. Its use is in the "fixing" of Fiber Reactive Dyes, the creation of an alkali environment in which the cellulose and the dye are able to permanently bond together. In vat dyeing, the Ph of the liquid in which the fabric is submerged is changed to about 10.5 at an appropriate point by the addition of soda ash. Afterfix is used by painting it on the fabric over the painted on dye thereby creating a kind of tiny alkali dyebath around each thread.Dye fixatives are cationic agents that work by bonding to the dye molecules within the fiber matrix and "bulking them up"; this "swelling" of the molecule traps it in the fiber and thus makes it significantly more fast. Given this mechanism, dye fixatives are useful with a wide variety of dye types (basically anything that penetrates the fiber matrix and can be wedged there). The amount used is determined by the amount of fabric (and thus the number of dye molecules that need to be bulked.

Dharma Dye Fixative is an industrial "Fixing Agent" used in the dyeing industry as an after-treatment of reactive and direct dyeing. It is intended to improve washfastness, fastness to seawater and perspiration, prevent dye migration during dyeing and improve crockfastness. It is used by rinsing purchased or dyed fabric for 15 minutes in a solution of cool water and about 1 oz. fixative per lb of fabric.

Retayne is also a "Fixing Agent", similar to the Dharma Dye Fixative.

The Spiral - Tie-Dye Basics
Basic Tie Dye Using Fiber Reactive Dyes
A clear and easy tutorial on how to tie-dye a shirt with the most popular pattern: the spiral.
Ombre
Ombre
...about the gradated fabric dyeing technique known as Ombre.
Shibori - an ancient traditional form of Tie-dye - with Fiber Reactive Dye
Shibori - an ancient traditional form of Tie-dye - with Fiber Reactive Dye
Use the Shibori method to dye a cute swim suit for summers at the beach or by the pool!
Wax Resist Using Tjaps
Wax Resist Using Tjaps
Sharon and Janet take you through the steps of using one of our Indonesian Copper Batik Tjaps as a 'resist stamp' using wax. A must try for all you batik buffs!
Hand Painted (aka space dyed) Cotton Yarn
Hand Painted (aka space dyed) Cotton Yarn
Make your own beautiful variegated Hand Dyed Cotton Yarn! Great for all natural plant fibers!
Quilt Design Tutorial
Quilt Design Tutorial
This project is intended to assist you in making you very own quilt! What we hope to illustrate is a method you can use to begin with a clean canvas and create the squres you desire to make a quilt that is entirely your own design.
Tjaps & Cleanline (Inko) Resist
Tjaps & Cleanline (Inko) Resist
There are so many ways to use our Indonesian Copper Batik Tjaps! Here is a step-by-step tutorial showing the use of (Inko) Resist (a casava paste water based resist) and a Tjap on cotton fabric.
Batik Banner
Batik Banner
Using wax as a resist, Janet provides a step-by-step tutorial of how to pattern dye one of our Good Luck Banners.
Watermelon Dress
Watermelon Dress
This is one of the owner's favorites! Create a cute little watermelon dress that's so adorable, you'll want to eat it up!
Spray Dyed Devore Satin Scarf
Spray Dyed Devore Satin Scarf
Dyeing can be just like spray painting! Check out this interesting technique we call "Spray Dyeing".
Discharged and Dyed Silk Rayon Velvet Scarf
Discharged and Dyed Silk Rayon Velvet Scarf
Discharging velvet is an easy task that yields excellent results. In this tutorial, Judi takes you through the 8-step process of how to discharge and dye a scarf.
Silk Cut Velvet Scarf and Bag Tutorial
Silk Cut Velvet Scarf and Bag Tutorial
Dyeing cut velvet has an interesting multi-colored effect, as shown by Judi in this step-by-step tutorial.
Scrunch Dyed T-shirt
Scrunch Dyed T-shirt
Another version of Low Immersion dyeing. Scrunch it up and dye it. It's that simple, really, and the results are great!
Shaving Cream Dyeing with Dharma Fiber Reactive MX Dyes
Shaving Cream Dyeing with Dharma Fiber Reactive MX Dyes
Here's a unique method of using shaving cream and Dharma Fiber Reactive MX dyes to get beautiful marble effects on fabric.
Leafy Quilt
Leafy Quilt
An example and materials list of a beautiful leaf-print quilt using a variety of Dharma products!
Halloween Table Decoration
Halloween Table Decoration
<p class="brief".Decorations can make an evening and we have a way to get your guest swooning! We used one of our Copper Batik Tjaps to make a dinner table to remember.

Soda Ash Fixer

IMG:SODA ASH FIXER

Dharma Fiber Reactive Dye must be 'fixed' (made permanent) with Soda Ash. About 1 lb. Soda Ash per 4 oz. of dye is needed when garment dyeing or per 3 lbs of fabric as a pre-soak when tie-dyeing.

Product Details 1+
Soda Ash Fixer 1lb. $1.69
Soda Ash Fixer 5lb. $5.95
Soda Ash Fixer 10lb. $11.25
Soda Ash Fixer 25lb. $22.95
Product Details Qty
1 lb. (approx. 1.75 Cups)
5 lbs. (approx. 9 Cups)
10 lbs. (approx. 18 Cups)
25 lbs. (approx. 44 Cups)
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit

Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 6 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Product Details 1-9 10-19 20+
Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit $14.95 13.66 12.36
Product Details Qty
Teeny Tiny Tie-Dye Kit
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Serious Tie-Dye Group Kit

Serious Tie-dye Starter Set

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 20 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Product Details 1-9 10-19 20+
Serious Tie-Dye Group Kit $25.95 23.65 21.36
Product Details Qty
Serious Tie-Dye Group Kit
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Tie-Dye Little Group Kit

Tie-Dye Little Group Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 50 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Product Details 1+
Tie-Dye Little Group Kit $47.95
Product Details Qty
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Tie-Dye Big Group Kit

Tie-Dye Big Group Kit

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 100 T-shirts (except the shirts).

Product Details 1+
Tie-Dye Big Group Kit $72.95
Product Details Qty
= In Stock = Out Of Stock = Special Order = Drop Ship

Hand Dyed Fabric Starter Set

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Everything you need to try out hand-dyeing fabric with Dharma Fiber Reactive Dyes. (Just add fabric!)

Product Details 1+
Hand Dyed Fabric Starter Set - NO BOOK $19.50
Product Details Qty
Hand Dyed Fabric Starter Set - NO BOOK
Complete kit except for the book: Color by Accident
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Procion Deluxe Batik Starter Set

IMG:PROCION DELUXE BATIK STARTER SET

Contains all the essentials for both tub dyeing and direct application methods of batik.

Product Details 1+
Procion Deluxe Batik Starter Set/NO BOOK $41.95
Product Details Qty
Deluxe Batik Starter Set / NO BOOK
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PRODUCT REVIEWS
Average Customer Review
4.82 (3550 Customer Reviews)
Click here to add or update a review for this product.
MOST HELPFUL REVIEWS
5/15/2008
5
Lovely colors easy to use if you do your research. Stay bight and clear through many washings. Wonderful to make quilting fabrics with. Fun to mix and create new colors and be as creative as you wish to be. A plus is the customer service!!!
Was this review helpful? 
55 of 55 users found this review helpful.
4/11/2017
5
Wonderful dye - beautiful colours and highly recommended. I normally use Jacquard iDye for its simplicity smaller salt amount and no need for a fixer. However the colours are very limited and these Procion dyes are just beautiful. I bought Moss Green which is very rich and deep Sapphire Blue which is a very true darker blue (no reds or greens in it) Peony - very lovely pink but can be quite intense when more of the dye is used and Imperial Purple which is one of the most beautiful inky sexy purples! I just love it:) More on the bluish side which is what I wanted and very deep in colour. Using a smaller amount of this due yields a beautiful lighter blue-lavender shade and its just as delicious as the dark:) These dyes however do need to be very well dissolved and I recommend pouring the dye solution through a strainer lined with a paper towel. Keep adding water to the container the dye was mixed in to catch all of the particles as the colours separate a bit (you will see particles of reds blues and even yellows depending on the colour you are using) and swirl the water in the container to really get all of the particles out and strained through the paper towel. Once I did this I did not notice the tiny pin-prick dye spots on my fabric as I saw when I skipped this process and just dumped the dye solution into my water bath. This process is especially important for any dye that had red in it as red seems to be a very tricky colour to work with when dyeing.
Was this review helpful? 
44 of 44 users found this review helpful.
7/12/2008
5
The best dye for tie-dye batik fabric dye painting etc. Colorfast for years easy to use and inexpensive. I absolutely recommend it.
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36 of 37 users found this review helpful.
9/12/2012
5
There is no comparison between this dye and Ritfabric store dyes. It's more work but it shows.. The old addage "if a little is good more must be better" DOES NOT apply here. I must say with my first batch (olive green) I followed the directions to the letter and it came out way darker than I wanted. For my second batch I used half the amount of dye and cut the soak times by more than 50 percent..... Still darker than I would have liked! Note to new users such as myself: you will need to experiment if you are set on a particular shade.Bottom line: It isnt rocket science... Set aside plenty of time - especially on your first go - and (considering the advice above) follow the directions. You'll have great results!One more note: Having a front loader I used the low foam Synthaprol to wash. I shudder to think of the amount of foam I would have had with regular Synthaprol as it was still VERY sudsy with LF!
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63 of 65 users found this review helpful.
7/14/2008
5
We've been using this dye for years and definitley worth the extra effort (mixing chemicals like a mad scientist!). We used syringes (without the needle) to make awesome colors - just slurp up a bit of this and a bit of that and some water and you can get some outrageous colors but not too much of it so it saves dye. Thumbs up.
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76 of 80 users found this review helpful.
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