Natural dye products in resealable pouches labeled Marigold, Indigo, Madder, and Chlorophyllin.
Madder - Rubia tinctorum Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Madder Extract - Rubia tinctorum
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Sappanwood - Caesalpinia sappan Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Red Sandalwood - Pterocarpus santalinus Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Lac - Laccifer laca/Kerria laca Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Lac  Extract - Laccifer laca/Kerria laca Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Kamala - Nelumbo nucifera Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Mimosa - Mimosa tenuiflora Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Cutch Extract - Acacia catechu Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Acacia - Acacia nilotica Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Onion Skins - Allium cepa L. Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Himalayan Rhubarb - Rheum emodi Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Himalayan Rhubarb Extract - Rheum emodi Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Marigold - Tagetes erecta
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Marigold Extract - Tagetes erecta
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Annatto - Bixa orellana
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Turmeric - Curcuma longa Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Pomegranate - Punica granatum
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Pomegranate Extract - Punica granatum
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Myrobalan Extract - Terminalia chebula
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Myrobalan - Terminalia chebula
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Parrot Tree - Butea monosperma
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Night Jasmine - Nyctanthes arbor-tristis Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Oak Galls - Quercus infectoria Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Oak Gall Extract - Quercus infectoria Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Walnut Hulls - Juglans Regia Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Henna - Lawsonia inermis Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Chlorophyllin Green (Mulberry Leaves) - Morus alba Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Indigo Extract - Indigofera tinctoria Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Indigo Leaves - Indigofera tinctoria Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Alkanet - Onosma hispidum
Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Tara - Caesalpinia spinosa Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)
Natural dye products in resealable pouches labeled Marigold, Indigo, Madder, and Chlorophyllin.

Dharma Natural Dyes

Color:
  • Product Details
    1-4
    5+
  • 100g
    $5.59
    $4.99
  • 100g
    $7.15
    $6.45
  • 100g
    $7.79
    $6.99
  • 100g
    $24.35
    $21.95
  • 100g
    $4.69
    $4.25
  • 100g
    $3.99
    $3.65
  • 100g
    $13.49
    $12.15
  • 100g
    $11.15
    $9.99
  • 100g
    $3.99
    $3.65
  • 100g
    $7.15
    $6.45
  • 100g
    $9.99
    $8.99
  • 100g
    $13.35
    $11.99
  • 100g
    $6.69
    $5.99
  • 100g
    $14.45
    $12.99
  • 100g
    $7.79
    $6.99
  • 100g
    $21.15
    $18.99
  • 100g
    $5.59
    $4.99
  • 100g
    $4.99
    $4.49
  • 100g
    $7.59
    $6.85
  • 100g
    $8.95
    $7.99
  • 100g
    $8.95
    $7.99
  • 100g
    $12.95
    $11.65
  • 100g
    $8.95
    $7.99
  • 100g
    $6.25
    $5.65
  • 100g
    $8.19
    $7.39
  • 100g
    $5.59
    $4.99
  • 100g
    $9.99
    $8.99
  • 100g
    $6.69
    $5.99
  • 100g
    $8.95
    $7.99
  • 100g
    $5.59
    $4.99
  • 100g
    $6.25
    $5.65
  • 100g
    $5.59
    $4.99
  • 250g
    $26.10
    $24.49
  • 250g
    $15.65
    $14.49
  • Size
    Quantity
  • 100g -
  • 250g -

Use With

USE FOR:Tub Dyeing a solid color, some direct application techniques
USE ON: All Natural Fibers

Check out our collection of Dharma Natural Dyes! Your go to source for all your fabric, yarn, silk, and other natural fiber dyeing needs. These dyes are perfect for immersion dyeing, solar dyeing, even shibori. 

All colors are available in 100 grams. Madder and Indigo are also available in 250 grams.

Dyed examples were done at 50% OWG. We used our Silk Hankies (#SH), our Cotton Bubble Gauze (#CG2-50"), and our Single Sock HT Mini Skeins (#YARN104)

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Learn more about each color below!

Acacia - Acacia nilotica

Acacia is a tannin-rich dye capable of producing warm camel, khaki and muted tobacco tones. The high tannin content gives the dye strong affinity for cellulose fibers and makes it useful both as a dye and mordant on its own. Using an additional iron mordant will shift the color palette toward deep olive and charcoal brown tones, while alum mordant will preserve a warmer golden-brown tone.

Alkanet - Onosma hispidum

Alkanet is known for its dramatic pH sensitivity and its wide range of purple hues from smoky lavender, muted plum and deep purple-brown tones. Using an alcohol soak can increase your color yield to darker, richer purples. Creating an alkaline dyebath by adding soda ash or calcium tends to push the color cooler and bluer. Using an acidic dyebath, by including vinegar or citric acid will encourage warmer burgundy tones.

Annatto - Bixa orellana

Annatto produces exceptionally bright yellow-orange shades with strong golden warmth and high clarity. Depending on concentration, it ranges from clear marigold to rich pumpkin and paprika orange. The dye has relatively low tannin content, giving it a cleaner, more transparent appearance compared to earthier botanical yellows. However, this dye is not as lightfast as others so storage out of sunlight is recommended. It is also a pH sensitive dye which will yield warm orange and orange-reds when placed in an alkaline bath of pH 9 or higher.

Chlorophyllin Green (Mulberry Leaves) - Morus alba

Chlorophyllin Green produces a surprisingly clear green compared to many natural dyes, with shades ranging from pale celery to cool leaf green with slight blue undertones. It has especially strong affinity for protein fibers, yielding strong and pleasant green shades, while cellulose fibers tend to dye softer and more muted. Unlike many yellow-based natural greens, Chlorophyllin offers a more direct green hue without needing overdyeing. It is moderately light-sensitive, making it best suited for projects not exposed to constant sunlight. Because the extract is highly concentrated, adjusting the amount even slightly can result in different color values on fibers.

Cutch - Acacia catechu

Cutch is a highly versatile tannin-rich dye capable of producing a broad range of warm browns depending on pH, oxidation, and mordant choice. With alum, it develops golden brown, amber, and warm chestnut tones, while extended heat and addition of an alkaline modifier will deepen the color toward dark mahogany shades. Using an iron mordant will dramatically sadden the color to a cooler, chocolate brown. Cutch is also valued for its excellent buildability; repeated dips and longer simmering will continue to intensify depth of shade without becoming muddy. Its naturally high tannin content also makes it useful in layered dye processes and cellulose applications and it can be used without a mordant if desired. 

Henna - Lawsonia inermis

Henna produces warm coppery orange-brown shades with distinctive reddish undertones caused by the dye molecule lawsone. On cellulose fibers it yields warm latte browns and soft yellows. Protein fibers however yield a color range from auburn and reddish chestnut depending on concentration of dyestuff used. Henna bonds very strongly to protein fibers, making it a very substantive dye. Iron mordant can deepen the palette into tobacco and brown-red tones, while lighter applications create warm amber staining effects.

Himalayan Rhubarb - Rheum emodi

Himalayan Rhubarb is notable for its strong pH responsiveness and unusually broad yellow-to-red range. Introducing an acid like citric acid or vinegar to the bath will cause it to dye bright golden yellow, while alkaline conditions push the dye toward rust, brick, and warm terracotta tones. When overdyed with indigo, it creates especially vivid olive greens with strong clarity. The dye performs well at relatively low percentages, making it economical for bright yellows and layered botanical palettes. 

Indigo - Indigofera tinctoria 

Indigo produces one of the most chemically unique natural dye processes, developing color through oxidation rather than direct dye absorption. Depending on the number of dips, indigo ranges from pale sky blue to deep navy and nearly black-blue. Because indigo isn’t readily water soluble, additional ingredients are needed to get a vat to work. There are many recipes out there, but one basic recipe uses soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite. Repeated dips gradually build depth without dramatically changing undertone.

Indigo Leaves - Indigofera tinctoria (unfermented)

Unfermented indigo leaves produce soft muted greens rather than the deep blues associated with processed indigo dye. The color range often includes sage, celadon, dusty olive, and gray-green tones with a naturally subdued quality. Because the indican precursor has not been chemically reduced into indigo pigment, the dye behaves more like a botanical green than a vat dye. Using an iron mordant will shift the color to an appealing smoky mauve gray. 

Kamala - Nelumbo nucifera

Kamala yields vibrant warm oranges and golden saffron tones with unusually strong saturation for a natural dye. On protein fibers, the color develops into rich orange-gold and reddish apricot shades with impressive brightness. Kamala is often used to intensify yellow and orange palettes or to warm other dyes without introducing excessive brown undertones. Its naturally resinous pigment structure contributes to strong chroma and glowing warm color.

Lac - Laccifer laca/Kerria laca (Excretion from the insect and extracted off the plant)

Lac is derived from a scale insect. The insects invade host trees and secrete a resin that contains the red dye. When harvested, the resin is taken off the branches. Lac is one of the few natural dyes capable of producing highly saturated cool reds and magenta-leaning purples, similar to Cochineal. On protein fibers, it develops colors ranging from raspberry pink and crimson to plum, burgundy, and violet-red depending on concentration and pH. Lac responds well to acidic conditions, which help maintain brightness and clarity in the final shade. Compared to many natural dye reds, Lac often has a cooler undertone and stronger chroma, making it especially useful for jewel-tone palettes and layered overdyes.

Madder - Rubia tinctorum

Madder is prized for its exceptionally broad and controllable red-orange spectrum. Dyebaths which use less dyestuff  yield peach, coral, and dusty rose, while higher concentrations of dye develop into brick red, terracotta and deep wine tones. The dye contains multiple color-bearing compounds, including alizarin and purpurin, which respond differently to both temperature and pH. Heating a madder bath above 160 degrees F will bring out more tannins and yield a more brown dye result. Alkaline dye baths using soda ash or calcium tend to enhance deeper reds, while acidic dyebaths using vinegar or citric acid will encourage softer orange tones. Madder is also known for its layering ability, allowing dyers to create nuanced tonal variation through gradual buildup rather than flat saturation.

Marigold - Tagetes erecta

Marigold produces bright high-chroma yellows that are often difficult to achieve with natural dyes alone. Depending on concentration, the color range spans clear lemon yellow, sunflower gold, marigold orange, and rich mango tones. This dye performs especially well on cellulose fibers, giving cotton and linen noticeably brighter results. Introducing an alkaline agent like soda ash or calcium pushes the hue toward warmer orange shades, while lower concentrations create luminous transparent yellows ideal for layering. Mixed with madder, it creates especially pleasing vibrant orange-red combinations.

Mimosa - Mimosa tenuiflora

Mimosa is a tannin-rich dye material that produces soft neutral browns, warm peaches and muted gray-brown shades depending on modifiers and fiber type. It can be used as a standalone dye or also as a mordant. Its high tannin content makes it especially useful when dyeing cellulose fibers. It is highly washfast and lightfast, and therefore it is a favored mordant and dye when planning on using multiple color baths. It is moderately pH sensitive yielding more golden tones in an acidic dyebath and more reddish purple tones in an alkaline dyebath. Iron mordant will shift Mimosa toward cool charcoal-brown and smoky purple-gray tones, while alum retains warmer beige and bark-inspired colors.

Myrobalan - Terminalia chebula

Myrobalan functions both as a dye and as a foundation layer for cellulose fibers. On its own, it produces soft buff, straw, antique gold, and muted yellow-brown shades depending on concentration. Because of its high tannin content, it is commonly used as a preparatory layer before darker dyes or iron blacks. One of its most interesting characteristics is how cleanly it combines with indigo, creating dusty teals and muted green-blue shades with excellent depth.

Night Jasmine - Nyctanthes arbor-tristis

Night Jasmine produces warm golden yellow to burnt saffron tones with a soft glowing warmth. The flowers contain strong carotenoid pigments that create vivid orange-yellow shades even at relatively low concentrations. Depending on pH and fiber type, the color may shift between turmeric-like golds and deeper sunset orange tones. Acidic dyebaths using citric acid of vinegar will bring out more orange tones, while alkaline dyebaths using soda ash or calcium yield a more pink and brownish tone.

Oak Galls - Quercus infectoria

Oak Galls are extremely high in tannins and are primarily valued for their reactivity with iron and other mordants. Alone, they produce pale beige, parchment, and soft taupe tones, but when combined with iron they create strong gray, charcoal, and near-black shades. Oak Galls are foundational in many historic black dye recipes due to their exceptionally high tannic acid content. They also improve dye fixation and depth in layered cellulose dye processes.

Onion Skins - Allium cepa L.

Onion Skins produce a surprisingly broad range of warm earthy colors, including golden yellow, bronze, copper, rust, and burnt orange. Our red onion skins can introduce muted olive and smoky mauve undertones. The dye develops quickly and often displays strong natural tonal variation across fibers. Iron modifiers create antique olive, weathered bronze, and darker shades.

Parrot Tree - Butea monosperma

Parrot Tree, also known as Flame of the Forest, produces vivid fiery yellows and orange-gold shades with excellent brightness. The color ranges from marigold and mango to warm flame orange depending on concentration and pH. The dye is particularly valued for creating energetic warm palettes with high saturation compared to many traditional botanical yellows. Its bright carotenoid-rich pigments lend a distinctly tropical appearance. Acidic dyebaths will give deeper reddish orange hues where Alkaline dyebaths will yield warm saffron yellow colors.

Pomegranate - Punica granatum

Pomegranate produces subdued yellow-green shades with an unusual matte, velvety finish compared to brighter botanical yellows. The color naturally leans toward olive, sage, and herbal green-gold tones due to its tannin structure. Overdyed with indigo, it creates rich moss and blue-green combinations, while iron shifts the palette toward dark olive and forest green. Because it is both tannin-rich and substantive, Pomegranate is useful in complex layered dye systems where subtle earthy undertones are desired.

Red Sandalwood - Pterocarpus santalinus

Red Sandalwood yields muted brick reds, warm burgundy browns, dusty rosewood, and reddish cocoa tones rather than intensely bright reds. The dye develops particularly well in alkaline dyebaths using soda ash or calcium, which help release its deeper red pigments. Iron darkens the palette toward wine-brown and mahogany, while lighter applications create soft antique rose undertones. The resulting colors are typically subdued, elegant, and wood-toned.

Sappanwood - Caesalpinia sappan

Sappanwood is capable of producing a wide range of pink, red, coral, and crimson shades depending on pH and mordant conditions. Fresh dye baths often lean bright coral-red, acidic dyebaths will shift it towards yellows and oranges, while alkalinity pushes the color toward magenta and purple-red tones. Iron saddens the palette into smoky plum and deep wine shades. Sappanwood is especially valued for its brightness and responsiveness, making it one of the more dynamic red natural dyes.

Tara - Caesalpinia spinosa

Tara is valued less for strong standalone color and more for its exceptionally high tannin content and clean undertone. It produces pale beige to light tea-colored hues while acting as an effective mordant assistant for cellulose fibers. Compared to darker tannins like oak gall or walnut, Tara contributes minimal color contamination, making it useful when brighter or clearer overdyes are desired. Its high gallic tannin content improves dye uptake and can subtly warm the final palette without dramatically shifting hue. 

Turmeric - Curcuma longa

Turmeric produces intensely bright golden yellow shades with extremely high saturation and immediate dye uptake. The color ranges from electric yellow and mustard to deep golden-orange depending on concentration. Alkaline dyebaths can push the hue toward orange-brown, while acidic conditions preserve clearer yellow tones. Although highly vibrant, Turmeric is notably light-sensitive, making it best suited for decorative or low-light applications where long term color retention is needed.

Walnut Hulls - Juglans Regia

Walnut Hulls are highly substantive and capable of producing deep browns without a mordant due to their natural tannin and juglone content. The color develops significantly through oxidation, meaning shades continue darkening during cooling and exposure to air. Depending on concentration and extraction time, Walnut Hulls can produce camel, taupe, dark walnut, and nearly black-brown tones. Because the powdered hulls are not fully extracted, exhausted dye baths often continue yielding softer secondary shades for multiple rounds of dyeing. The resulting browns are typically rich, earthy, and highly colorfast compared to many natural dyes.


Other useful Tips and How-tos:
How To Use Natural Dyes
Troubleshooting Natural Dyeing
Natural Dyeing FAQ

General Recipe for Natural Dyes

The 2 step process:

STEP 1: Mordanting

Mordant used: 

  • Aluminum Acetate 

For plant fibers: 

Mordanted with 20% alum and 6% soda ash.

Weigh out your fabric. Take 20% of that number and that’s how much alum you will need. Using that fabric weight again, take 6% of that number to measure out your soda ash for use.

  • Fill a pot with enough water for fibers to float around freely.
  • Dissolve alum in boiling water, add soda ash and integrate (It’s ok for bubbles to form during this process, that’s carbon dioxide) 
  • Add your weighed out fabric
  • Bring pot up to simmer and simmer (approx 180 degrees) for 1 hour.
  • Let sit and cool for 24 hours. Rinse with cool water when ready to use.

For animal fibers:

Mordanted with 5% alum 

Weigh out your fabric. Take 5% of that weight and that is the amount you’ll use in alum.

  • Fill a pot with enough water for fibers to float around freely.
  • Dissolve the alum in warm water
  • Add fibers and heat slowly to simmer - simmer (approx 180 degrees) for 1 hour.
  • Let sit and cool for 24 hours. Rinse with cool water when ready to use.

Dyebath process: 

  • Fill container with enough water for fibers to float around freely.
  • Add dyestuff
  • Simmer for 1 hour. Not going above 180 degrees.
  • Rinse with cool water when done.

STEP 2: Dyeing

  • Fill container with enough water for fibers to float around freely.
  • Add dyestuff
  • Simmer for 1 hour. Not going above 180 degrees.
  • Rinse with cool, running water when done.

Dye bath process for indigo:

  • Indigo dyed at 12% OWG (for 30 grams of fabric this is 3.6 grams)
  • Hydrosulfite is 2x the amount of indigo being used: 7.2grams
  • Soda ash is used to get the pH to 11 (this may be about a x3 amount: 10.8g)
  • For how much water, you use a ratio of dyestuff 1:30. (For 30 grams of fabric this is about 8 cups of water)
  • Fill a bucket with water, then add the soda ash and indigo. Add your Hydrosulfite last. 
  • Wait for reaction.
  • Proceed to dip fibers in the indigo bath - approx 3-4 dips
  • Hang to dry in between dips for oxidization
  • Rinse in cool water when done.
Natural Dyes 101 with Cochineal and Madder Root
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