How To: Get Solid Black Using Fiber Reactive Dye


A Few Things About Black Dye:

Black can be the hardest color to get. We currently have 5 blacks. Each has a different color cast. All except #250 work well in direct application methods like tie-dye where the fabric is kept moist long enough for the dye to develop full color. You will see some differences depending on which you use, your particular situation, and your techniques. When tub dyeing (solid shade dyeing), there are some clear differences...

#200 Raven Black (our latest and Greatest!!)

Deep Bluish Black - A cold water black that has a more balanced cast than 300 or 44, and gives the deepest black of all the "cold water" reactives in tub dyeing. In tie-dyeing, the edges are blue to bluish purple, a deeper shade than 44, and slightly darker than 300. We think it is going to be a great new option for dyers doing all kinds of techniques. And while no cold water black can ever equal the depth of hot water black like #250 in solid dyeing, this one is the next best, and much more economical than a hot water black. Not black on protein fibers.

#44 Better Black
This is one of our best-selling blacks. Solid Color (tub) dyes with a purple-blue cast and edges are blue in tie-dye. Not black on silk or wool.

#39 Black (Special Order Only)
Tub dyes with a grayish-green cast and edges are blue in tie-dye. Not black on silk or wool.

#300 New Black
Our other best selling black - tub dyes with a very blue cast and edges are blue in tie-dye. Some of our good tie-dye customers say mixing a 50/50 blend of #44 & #300 gives them good results (test different ratios to see what you prefer). Not black on silk or wool.

#250 Jet Black
Our darkest black for tub dyeing. BACK by popular demand; But the price did go way up, as we had said it would. Also, one of the ingredients was no longer available, so we had to reformulate it. This color runs a little different than what you were used to, so if you want to go back to this color, we recommend TESTING before you go whole-hog and purchase a very expensive 25 pounder or something!!! Best tub dyed in hot (130° to 150°F) water! Not black on silk or wool or other protein fibers. Not black in tie-dye, batik or low immersion techniques unless you have a way of heating it while it is curing. (But that would melt the wax with Batik).

#275 Hot Black - NEW!
Also, best tub dyed in hot (150° to 180°F) water, like the #250, which it was replacing. Now it is a less expensive alternative. Tub dyes with a deep but bluish black cast on cotton. With Soda Ash on silk is a deep blackish brown, with vinegar on silk, came out black in our tests and a less deep shade of black on wool. #250 Jet has never come out black on silk or wool. Tie-dye came out really black for us in a warmish ambient room temp of 75°F or more! (unlike #250, which it was replacing). If you are looking for a different black, give it a try. The only Fiber Reactive black that works on silk! Also our BEST black for Discharging!

For best tub dyed blacks, use Dharma Dye Fixative in a final soak in HOT water for 30 minutes before washing out the excess dye. Black is a tough color - you have to use a lot of dye and when tub dyeing, use extra salt. Do NOT try to use Fiber Reactive Procion Dye to get black on silk, use acid dye on wool and silk for solid black. Exception - try our NEW #275 Hot Black! Always remember to quadruple the dye when using black, and use 1.5 - 2 times as much salt!!


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